Sunday, May 3, 2015

Reincarnation — Empress Elisabeth of Austria Lives Again

Close-up of Elisabeth of Bavaria, Empress of Austria by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, 1865

Fashion is often the application of history, and the Chanel Pre-Fall 2015 “Paris-Salzburg” presentation is a notable example of this phenomenon. Every year for the pre-fall collection, Chanel head designer Karl Lagerfeld picks a new locale to inspire him and holds a spectacular destination fashion show there. He studies the history and rich culture of these foreign cities and creates collections that are deeply inspired by the landscape and the people. For the 2015 edition, he and his model muses jetted up from Paris to Salzburg, Austria, for a decadent night at the Hotel Schloss Leopoldskron. When it-girls like Lindsey Wixson and Kendall Jenner strutted through the Baroque manor they wore lederhosen and Tyrolean hats that were to be expected from an Austrian-inspired collection, but Lagerfeld was not only inspired by the costumes of the Von Trapp children. His main source of inspiration was the Empress Elisabeth, affectionately known as Sisi, whom he brought back to life for the evening with the help of fellow muse Cara Delevingne.

In the collection's accompanying short film, “Reincarnation”, Delevingne transforms from lowly barmaid to the reincarnation of the Empress herself, in true Cinderella fashion. Singer Pharrell Williams joins her as Emperor Franz Joseph I for a fantastical waltz in the middle of the night as they sing about Sisi and “CC” (as in Coco Chanel and the famous interlocking C logo of the esteemed French fashion house).

It is enchanting to see the empress come alive—and in the form of Cara Delevingne, who seems to be the world’s most talked-about model/actress these days—but one wonders what it is about Empress Elisabeth that so enchanted Karl Lagerfeld, and furthermore, how does his interpretation of the empress influence how modern audiences respond to the monarch?

Marie Antoinette — Hair Up To There

Kim Kardashian's platinum-blonde hair | Portrait of Marie Antoinette by Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, 1783
When Kim Kardashian dyed her hair platinum blonde a few weeks back, it seemed like everyone had an opinion on the matter. Memes were created, think pieces were written, and fashion police, official and self-appointed, made judgment calls. The moment Kim stepped out in Paris with her white-blonde locks the world was atwitter (on Twitter), but let’s face it: Kim’s testing the hypothesis of whether or not blondes have more fun wasn't going to start any wars or plummet the economy.

But what if it had?

What if Kim Kardashian’s hair choice changed the political landscape of America? What if public outcry for her unnatural color created actual, palpable change in the economy or in government? To even imagine such a world is a ridiculous task, and one can't help but laugh at the idea. But a little over two hundred years ago, one daring hairstyle could hold a lot of political power.

Just ask Marie Antoinette. You probably know the girl from her unfortunate role in the French Revolution (you know, where the people shouted “Off with her head!” and the French monarchy all had not-so-good dates with the guillotine) or the dreamy reimagining of her life in a Sofia Coppola film. As an important figure of the French Revolution, Marie Antoinette is someone you either love or you hate. A figurehead of the frivolities of the absolutist French monarchy, Antoinette was known for her daring style and her preference for the finer things in life. She was also the subject of many a political scandal, and much was gossiped about her and her lifestyle. If you think modern-day gossip rags are ridiculous, you won't believe how outrageous some of the rumors about Marie Antoinette were.

What does this have to do with her hairstyle, you may be asking? You'd be surprised just how seriously people took coiffures back in the day.

Saturday, May 2, 2015

The First Fashion Designer — Charles Frederick Worth & His Royal Clientele

Photograph of Charles Frederick Worth | Portrait of The Empress Eugénie (wearing one of Worth's designs), 1854, by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Karl Lagerfeld. Raf Simons. Marc Jacobs. Phoebe Philo…and so on goes the list of the leading fashion designers of today. If you are interested in the fashion industry you know these names, and even if you are just a casual observer of the fashion world chances are you can name off top designers. Whether you are deeply invested in the world of fashion or not you recognize the important role that fashion designer play in shaping trends and inspiring the very things you wear, no matter if they are from Target or Barney’s.

Did you know, however, that there was a time when fashion designers—and fashion brands, for that matter—were not a thing? It’s true! Back in the day there were no department stores to shop from, no all-important creative forces who dictated the trends du jour. Quelle horreur!  So who started this whole fashion designer thing? Who was the one to make that a trend?

For that answer, we turn (of course) to the city of Paris.